Let’s Talk about Buying Used Equipment

I am going to write today about buying used “commercial grade” multi-head embroidery equipment.  But before we get started I need to state up front that what I will say is my opinion and my opinion only.  Anything I say is to be taken as opinion and not as fact.   Above all else, before you buy used embroidery equipment you should have the equipment thoroughly inspected by a qualified machine mechanic who has experience with the exact machine you are looking to purchase.   Hiring a mechanic to inspect your prospective purchase is probably the single best thing you can do for yourself.

With all of that said buying used equipment in the modern era is not like it was when dinosaurs still roamed the planet (1989) when I bought my first used machine.  Back then used equipment was skating the line between older mechanical machines and what was to become the modern era of truly computerized commercial embroidery.   Now-a-days a well maintained five year old machine can be as good as the day it rolled out of the manufacturing facility.  The operative phrase to concern yourself with is “well maintained.”   How to identify when a machine is well maintained is what I will discuss in this blog.

I am not going to try and tell you how to negotiate price.  That is up to you.  But if I can convince you of only one thing, you should never purchase a machine at a “discount” because it is a fixer upper.

In no particular order I am going to list a few things to watch out for when considering the purchase of a used embroidery machine.  This list is by no means comprehensive but if you find any of the issues below while reviewing a machine I would keep my wallet firmly in my back pocket.  There is a great deal of quality used equipment on the market right now.  Do not be lured by price alone.  Take your time to make a careful purchase decision – you will probably be living with this decision a long time and you want to have “happy thoughts” every time you turn this machine on.

1.  All machines should come with their original owner’s manual and parts book.  There is simply no way a machine can be properly maintained without the manual.  The Owner’s Manual will list when and how to perform all scheduled maintenance.  The manual will clearly describe how a machine is to be oiled and lubricated.  Anyone who tells you they have taken care of their machine and cannot produce a manual has missed something, somewhere and you won’t know what it is until a very inopportune time.  An original parts book is irreplaceable.  You might think this is an easy thing to replace…not so.   It is a big fat pain in the butt to find a new one.  Machines have many different versions of the same basic type.  Unless you know exactly what you are asking for finding the right parts manual can be very difficult.

2.  If a head is turned off on a machine (when it shouldn’t be) I would turn around and walk out the door without asking any other questions.  A machine that has a head turned off is a problem waiting to happen in your shop.  Are there exceptions to this rule?  Of course, but you must insist that under no circumstance will you accept delivery of the machine unless all heads are in complete working order.

3.  Is the machine dusty or show obvious signs of indifference?  If you find large deposits of dust or even cob webs on a machine then I promise you it has not been properly cared for.  People who take care of their machines keep them clean.  Closely examine the grills of any cooling fans.  Are they clogged with lint and dust?  If so, open the control box they are supposed to be cooling.  If you smell a hot “plastic” type of odor then your controller boards are running too hot.  Controller boards are grossly expensive to replace…they can be thousands of dollars each.  If a machine is not cooling properly these boards can fry out.

4.  There is a small gap between the rotary hook and the bushing where the vertical drive shaft comes out of the base of the machine.  Check this gap to see if it is clogged with bobbin thread.  If it is then there is a good chance the machine has been indifferently maintained.  Remove the hooks and clean out this thread build up and then reinstall the hook.  Then, try and move the hook assembly (not the basket it moves freely) left and right (with the machine on) there should be ZERO slack…the hook should not jiggle back and forth.  If it does, the helical gears that turn the shafts are either worn or not properly aligned.  A bad thin in either case.

5.  Remove any inspection plates covering areas of a machine that require lubrication.  Ensure the machine has been lubricated.  Grease and Oil are two different things.  Make sure you know where each needs to be applied and inspect it has been done.

6.  Insist on seeing any maintenance records.  What parts have been replaced, when and by who?  Has the machine received scheduled maintenance by a qualified tech?

7.  Does the machine have any warranty left on it?  If it does, is the warranty transferable to a new owner?  Not all are…be very careful about this and be sure to read the original sales contract.  Be sure to understand the warranty.  Most will only cover parts and labor but will not cover any travel a tech might need to do.  If this is the case make sure there is a tech relatively close by.  You can get KILLED by paying the travel expenses (airfare, hotel, per diem) to bring a tech in for repairs.  When a machine is out of warranty this gets even worse.  Most techs charge around $100 an hour or more.

8.  Closely inspect any hat frames and hat drivers.  Hat drivers should not have an slop in the left to right movement.  Make sure there is no missing hardware.  Inspect the hat frames to make certain they are “true” and all of the bands and clamping mechanisms function properly.

9.  Inspect the electronic panels.  Electronic issues are tough to track down.  Bring a flashlight and examine the circuit boards.  You are looking for brown spots on the circuit boards.  This indicates an area where a component “blew out” and was then replaced or a HOT SPOT where a component is about to blow. 

10.  Check to see if any safety devices have been disabled intentionally or otherwise.  If they have been insist they be re-installed and work properly.  Someone else might want to get sued for negligence but you don’t.

Buying used equipment is not always buying someone’s old headache.  People need to get out of equipment for all kinds of good reasons and if you do your homework and come to the deal well prepared you can save yourself a pile of money.  However, if you don’t you can get stuck with a clunker that is nothing but a really expensive paperweight.  I know…I bought a used twelve head once that was the single worst equipment purchase I ever made. 

As always – if you want to comment please do so with the tools provided.  If you would like to reach me directly you send me an email to steve.freeman@qdigitizing.com.